We’ve been here for almost two months now, and I’ve shared a lot about how much we’re enjoying our simpler life. But there have definitely been some changes that have been difficult to deal with, so I thought I would share a little about those too!
1) Bugs. Lots and lots of bugs and bug bites. In America pesticides are sprayed everywhere, including in public parks, so much of the bug population is controlled in populated areas. Here dealing with bugs is a daily occurrence, and I’m unfortunately the best thing to happen to the bug population of El Nido; if there is something that bites, I will get bitten. And the bugs here are Jurassic-era huge, especially because we live beside an undeveloped mountainside. Mosquitoes are the least of our problems because they’re the least itchy of the bugs that bite. I’ve been massacred by nikniks (sand flies/no-see-ums) and sea lice (baby jellyfish). The itchiness of their bites is much more severe and lasts much longer than mosquito bites. They itch so badly that you can’t sleep. Plus I already have eczema and sensitive skin, so I truly suffer. But it really depends on the person and whether or not they’re allergic to bites. I get the most bites by far out of everyone in our family, followed by Charlie. Olive almost never gets any bites even when we’re in the same place at the same time!
2) Other creepy, crawly critters. If you follow me on snapchat, you regularly see me trapping lizards, frogs, geckos, and spiders (the size of my palm) in our house. We also deal with wasps, monster centipedes, praying mantises, ticks (Mr. Bee’s mom’s yorkie gets a bunch every time he comes over to our side) and many other bugs I can’t identify. Ants are always a problem and they’re often found working together to carry away a big dead bug. I also kill ants crawling up my arms a couple times every day. Killing bugs with our bare hands has become a daily way of life for all of us. The plentiful insects here attract dragonflies (they eat mosquitoes), frogs, lizards and geckos, and we see a couple lizards/tokay geckos in our house every day. The geckos harmless, but they make these loud croaking sounds every night that always wake us up!
3) Truly scary and dangerous critters. Our nanny found a 3 foot long poisonous snake in her room! Luckily Mr. Bee’s mom has an awesome member on staff that is not afraid of anything (he’s the unofficial critter catcher), and he caught and killed it. The reason the snake was there was because we had a rat infestation in our attic. Our house had remained uninhabited for a while because it was badly damaged by typhoons, and a family of rats had taken up residence. We have a metal roof and the sound of their claws on it every night sounded like there was a bear up there! I think we caught 6 rats with traps and the clawing sound disappeared for a while, but we heard a new one last night.
There are many alligators and crocodiles native to this island. I’ve seen them on island hopping tours, and they’re about 5 feet long or so. Last week Mr. Bee saw one just behind our house! Of course now the kids are more curious than ever about spotting it and try to go up there by themselves.
4) No trash service. Because there is no trash service, an area behind our house serves as a dump site for the resort where they dump trash and burn it (like all of the other local resorts and residents). The trash attracts rodents, which in turn attracts snakes and alligators. The trash is actually the root cause of almost all our critter problems. We’re currently working on setting up a long-term compost solution and trash reduction plans for the resort.
5) No spay/neuter services. The dump also attracts lots of dogs wandering through our property looking for food. They’re not necessarily strays and most probably have owners, but most dogs here are underfed. They’re typically fed a few scraps of leftovers with a lot of water added. I don’t really fear them biting the kids too much because all dogs tend to be friendly and will run away if you shush them. But it is tough to have at least half a dozen dogs wandering around our house every day — some of them are part of the same pack of the two dogs we feed regularly, Brownie and Alko. Many are painfully thin, and females always recently had puppies. As a huge animal lover it is really, really, really hard for me to resist feeding all.the.dogs. Since there are no spay/neuter services, dogs are constantly breeding. For the most part the dogs seem pretty happy though even if they are starving, because they play with each other and run free around the island.
Brownie pretty much lives with us. I’ve been feeding him every day since we got here and though you can still see his ribs, he’s definitely put on some weight. He’s a very sweet dog but such a beta, I can’t always get him to eat, especially when his alpha pack leader Alko is around!
6) Isolation/no friends/lack of things to do. Admittedly we haven’t made any effort to meet people here because we’ve been busy setting up our home, catching up on work, and helping Mr. Bee’s parents out with their business. Every day is pretty much the same as the last, and I thrive on adventure and new experiences. We’ve stayed close to home for the most part because we’re residents and not tourists anymore! Once we’re more settled in we’ll definitely be taking advantage of everything the island has to offer, but we’re also trying to convince some good friends in New York to come live with us for a year! Would you take us up on that offer and move to a remote tropical island?
apricot / 341 posts
Is there a vet on the island? Or at least some for animal husbandry person. The dogs probably all have worms there should a de-wormer you can get for pretty cheap. A lot of the de-wormers for horses and cattle also work on dogs (just a smaller dose). Or maybe when you’re at one of the large islands stop at a vet or some place to get some de-wormer. It’s not expensive in bulk and if your kids interact with the dogs you’ve been taking care of it be a good idea.
And also there’s a now a shot that neuters dogs and is pretty affordable. It’s called Zeuterin. One of the goals of the developer of it was to help in places like where you are to reduce stray animal population safely and easily. There’s probably some group somewhere that specializes in strays in the Philippines. But I don’t really know where to start outside that a quick google research shows there is a group called Philippine Animal Welfare Society (PAWS) that might be a good starting point!
pomegranate / 3225 posts
so exciting! I would come join you in a heartbeat! My husband could not take the bugs though! Haha
admin / watermelon / 14210 posts
@RKitty: yes there’s a vet in the capital 5 hours away. i have heard that we can arrange for someone to come through a nonprofit if we pay for transportation and lodging.
zeuterin is fascinating! must look into that as it seems much more plausible than neutering. and reading up about worms is pretty scary! we have sooooo many dogs pass through our house every day. maybe i should put up a fence!
guest
vets without borders has partners in the philippines
http://vetswithoutborders.net/collaborative_resources.html
kiwi / 558 posts
Have you tried baby oil for the sand flies? When we were in Belize and these would be out worse in early morning and early evening, it was the only thing to keep them off our skin! We did sun lotion, baby oil then bug spray. We looked greasy but it definitely kept more bugs away. Not sure if you brought any with you or could find some on the island.
I don’t know if I could deal with all those critters! You are definitely braver than I would be!
Good luck with all the continued work, clean up and innovation!
blogger / nectarine / 2600 posts
I went to Taiwan a lot as a child and as much as I love it and miss it your post reminded me of the bugs and rats that haunted my childhood! Those things are monsters compared to what we see in the states.
blogger / apricot / 310 posts
I love hearing about these challenging aspects, as someone looking to be a family outside the US in the future. The bugs reminds me so much of what was hardest (beyond the heat) about adjusting to life in SE Asia – so many huge bites from bugs I didn’t know existed, and the constant need to check shoes for scorpions before putting them on!
blogger / grape / 92 posts
So…you moved to Texas?
Just kidding, though it sounds very similar to my house! We have tarantulas, tons of little scorpions that get into the house, fire ants galore which are the worst because they sneak up on you and the stings are brutal. I found a coral snake in the yard and went straight into “MUST KILL” mode, but then learned their mouths are too small to damage larger animals, they really have to gnaw on you to get the poison. Though rattlesnakes, cottonmouths, and copperheads are more of an issue. As a general rule I try to “live and let live” when it comes to snakes, but poisonous ones near the house always give me pause. My dad likes to trap them and call nearby hospitals or vet clinics to see if they need any for antivenoms, but those are mostly synthetic now so it’s been a while since anyone’s taken him up on it.
We have wasps and hornets too, many of them, and for the most part if you leave them alone they won’t hurt you. But if they become a problem you can fill a sprayer with very soapy water to spray on the nest, it keeps them from flying. Once they fall you can, well, dispatch them, and then crush the nest. I haven’t needed to do that yet, they prefer to nest very high on the house and don’t bother us. But I certainly feel your pain with the bugs! The fire ants were awful this year from floods followed by drought, they kept nesting in my house. For some reason they climbed into all my hanging clothes and I didn’t realize it until AFTER I had put them on! Talk about ants-in-your-pants! Ugh, it was awful.
pomelo / 5866 posts
Sorry to hear about the down side! So challenging! It’s definitely NOT first world problems and I totally feel for you as you get through each new ‘encounter with nature’. Hopefully, you are still enjoying all the amazing, great parts of your journey. I’m sure all the critters are very intellectually stimulating for the whole family!
I think it’s great you found a charitable program where vets can spay/neuter! Really brilliant! Now if we could rally the community to send a vet there! How about a Kickstarter or GoFundMe?
guest
Hi there! Just a quick question about the Wi-Fi that’s available there. I’ll be in El Nido in about 2 weeks and was wondering about how the service was out there. Do you use one of those portable Wi-Fi devices?
hostess / eggplant / 11068 posts
I would come for a month!
admin / watermelon / 14210 posts
@jen – where will you be staying? most hotels have wifi, but you won’t be able to access it while walking around town. cafes have wifi too. but don’t expect it to be fast like the states! you can buy a pocket wifi here for around $30, or you can buy one off amazon that’s unlocked as long as it can take a local sim card (huawei makes them), and then buy a sim card here.
we use pocket wifi when we travel or when our internet goes down. There are two companies on the island, smart and globe, and our internet is globe. When it goes down, we use our smart pocket wifi.
blogger / cherry / 247 posts
WOW!!! i am itchy just reading about this!
admin / watermelon / 14210 posts
@808love: @RKitty: i just came across a great ebook someone wrote about treating stray dogs in thailand that is super helpful.
the next time i’m in the island capital i’m going to try to stock up on lvermectin for mites, deworming medicine, antibiotics, antihistamine and flea medicine. it is much cheaper here than in the states and hopefully a vet will sell it to me for not too much if i buy it in bulk and he knows what i need it for.
if it goes well and i can treat all the dogs in the immediate area (can just dose them with medicine in a bowl of milk), i’d love to start a gofundme and try to treat as many dogs as i can.
one of the dogs we care for has worms right now and i am really worried about him being around the children. he must really be suffering.
apricot / 341 posts
@Mrs. Bee: I’m glad you were able to find some resources! I do rescue here in the US, but I have no experience over seas! But most vets will work with you and give you generous discounts when they find out what you are doing, hopefully you find that that to be true there too.
And if you do a go-fund me let us know for sure! I can’t help much, but I would!
As for worms… well, they’re a fact of life. I’ve had just about every type of worms in my house at one point, and a few several times. I actually de-worm all my personal pets at least twice a year due to the constant exposure they get from my fosters.
Thankfully I nor my husband, or any company at our house has ever caught worms from my fosters either. As long as your kids and you follow standard sanitary guidelines your risks are way lower. Mostly just wash your hands after petting or interacting with dogs or where they have been laying or eating. Your biggest worry is actually bugs transmitting the worms, like tapeworm eggs are carried by fleas (ew!).
Worms usually aren’t harmful on their own it’s the fact that they lower the animals immune system allowing them to get sick with other things that really causes the problems. And if they do have worms for prolong periods it can cause health issues due lack of nutrients and food getting absorbed. But once you get them de-wormed they usually plump back up in a just a couple days.
Also I don’t know if there are any weird tropic worms too that you need to worry about, I just know my standard worms here (and for example where I live we never have had a case of heartworm in a local pet). And my focus is more feline then canine, but usually it’s pretty universal.
Good luck!
guest
we’ll be in Apulit Island Resort in El Nido
we have both the Smart & Globe portable wi-fis. we switch between the both of them depending on the reception!
admin / watermelon / 14210 posts
@808love: @RKitty: there was a free rabies and deworming event sponsored by the local government this weekend!
and i contacted a vet in the island capital who shipped me deworming pills and frontline the next day by van. he is also coming this weekend to test our dogs for heartworm, vaccinate them and spay and neuter them!
I would love to start a gofundme to spay and neuter as many dogs as possible, but I know that other people here have done similar events in the past so I want to loop in with them first.